An Open Air Market in India


By Julie Sahni

[I’ve been an admirer of Julie Sahni since I first began cooking from her essential Classic Indian Cooking in the 80s, and I’m happy to say we’ve become friends. Ms. Sahni is the chef/owner of Julie Sahni’s Indian Cooking in New York City, and an award winning author of 10 cookbooks (Classic Indian Vegetarian and Grain Cooking is also a must-have). She’ll be writing about Indian cooking periodically for – how great is that? – mb]

I love to visit Indian grocery stores in Queens, not just for spices, legumes and chutneys but for Indian vegetables. Mounds after mounds of tiny okra-like tindola squash, long and windy snake gourd chichinda, crocodile-textured karela, tiny eggplants, guar beans, and Indian kakri cucumbers are dumped on racks, bins, and baskets, not oiled and stacked like LEGOs.   

My mother taught me very early on that okra’s tenderness can be gauged by simply running fingers, ever so gently, on its body.  Silky smooth texture with rounded edges suggests perfect okra while hairy skins with tough ridges not so.  And, the secret of freshness lies at its tip. A quick, neat break means the okra is fresh while a soft and rubbery generally points to staleness.  Continue reading

Posted in Indian, Travel

Win the How To Cook Everything iApp!


We’re giving away another batch of apps today. Here’s the deal: Post a comment telling us how technology has changed the way you cook–or not. We’ll read through them and pick the five that speak to us. Then we’ll post them for all to see, ask you to send your email address to us, and get you your personal copy of How To  Cook Everything–the super-comprehensive, searchable, amazing iPhone version. Only comments posted before midnight May 12th will be eligible.

Posted in Behind The Scenes, Events

Roof Garden Rocket


By Paula Crossfield

[I’m envious of Paula’s rooftop garden, which has everything described here and an amazing view. Paula is a founder of Civil Eats. – mb]

I made a decision in early April that has improved my quality of life immensely: I broadcasted hundreds of lettuce seeds throughout two, 2 ft. x 6 ft. raised beds on my rooftop.

One bed was seeded with “European Mesclun Mix,” from the Baker Creek Seed Bank in Petaluma, California (a gift from my lovely fellow editor at Civil Eats, Naomi Starkman). The second bed was filled with “Ultimate Salad Bowl,” from my other favorite seed place, the Hudson Valley Seed Library. For four weeks, the sun, soil and water have worked their magic. Now, I have delicious red and green curly lettuces, baby kale, radicchio, endive, mizuna, mustard greens, mache and orach (a relative of spinach). And arugula! Continue reading

Posted in Farming

The Department of Hard-Won, Unexpected, Partial Success


By Laura Virginia Anderson 

Last week, my friend Priya hosted a dinner party and made an amazing mango mousse. She improvised it using heavy cream, canned mango pulp she had bought at an Indian grocery, sugar, fruit pectin, and lime juice. The result was incredible: the texture of a stovetop pudding married to the flavor of a mango lassi. 

I couldn’t stop thinking about it, so when the weekend arrived, I decided to give it a try. I didn’t have any mango pulp or fruit pectin, but, in a blaze of overconfidence, I felt sure that I could achieve similar results using a couple of ripe mangos and a traditional mousse technique. I peeled the mangos and cut them into chunks, then I puréed them in a blender with four egg yolks, a little sugar, and some lime zest. Meanwhile, I beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt, lime juice, and a little more sugar—so far, so good. Continue reading

Posted in Indian

Given a Choice, Why Eat Antibiotics?


I think it’s worth reading this summary in Environmental Health News of the Korean study that showed a decline in levels of hormone-disrupting chemicals and antibiotics after just five days on a “vegetarian” diet. (I first saw this in a piece by Tom Laskawy, over at Grist. And here is an earlier study with similar results.)  

The quotes around vegetarian are necessary because the study doesn’t specify what that means; rather, it says participants lived in a Buddhist temple and “adopted to the monk’s lifestyle.” Which could well mean a vegan diet. (Or even one free of root vegetables, since some Buddhists eschew those, because they kill the plant. But let’s not discuss this.)  

Continue reading

Posted in Vegan

Leftover Boiled Beef Day One: Ropa Vieja



By Edward Schneider 

One of the best reasons to cook a big piece of meat is the leftovers, whether they be flesh or bones, and all the things you can do with them. Hence, one of the best reasons to boil a piece of beef is the subsequent ropa vieja: Cuban-inspired shredded meat with vegetables in a tomatoey sauce. And the subsequent miroton: onions in vinegary sauce layered with thinly sliced beef, topped with breadcrumbs and baked till brown and crisp.

As a kid I hated boiled beef (and boiled chicken too), but I have come round to it in a big way, thanks perhaps to exposure to bollito misto in Italy, though it could just be part of growing up, or at any rate growing older. (By the way, did anyone out there actually like boiled meat, other than corned beef, as a child? Italians needn’t answer: of course you liked boiled meat.) Continue reading

Posted in Recipes

And the Winners Are…



When we challenged readers of to win a copy of Food Matters by telling us stories, I had no idea how varied, wonderful, and downright inspiring these stories would be. (You can read through them here if you like.)

Choosing three wasn’t easy, but these are my three favorites. (Winners: please email your snail mail address to and we’ll get them in the mail.)

Stay tuned. We’ll be giving away more How to Cook Everything i-phone apps and some copies of How to Cook Everything this week.   

Continue reading

Posted in Events

Government’s Rightful Role in Nutrition

By Kelly D. Brownell, Ph.D. 

[Kelly is the director of the Rudd Center for Food Policy and Obesity at Yale, and a leading advocate for sensible nutrition. His influence is tremendous – though I wish it were even more so – and he is a major force behind the national push for the soda tax. (Which I wrote about here.) We’re hoping to coax him for updates on his work and his insights regularly. – mb] 

A profound and welcome change has swept the country. Once relegated to the backwaters of public policy, nutrition issues such as childhood obesity have exploded into the limelight and captured the attention of public officials who now realize something must be done. Though “treatment” remains popular, the prevailing public health view is that we must focus on prevention, and that officials must change the factors driving poor nutrition.  

The urge to act can be found at all levels of government, and there is support from surprising quarters. For example, a group called Mission: Readiness, run by senior retired military officials, recently announced that obesity and lack of physical fitness threatens national security because only 1 in 4 youth ages 17-24 meet minimum standards for military service. [Check out this frightening and ironically amusing PDF – mb.] 

Continue reading

Posted in Food Politics

A Return to Sweeter Times


By Suzanne Lenzer

[Following up on her popular On Eating Alone, Suzanne suggests the opposite: inviting someone over, for an old-fashioned coffee cake. – mb]

Remember how in old television shows neighbors visited each other in the middle of the day for a cup of coffee and a slice of cake? Ethel and Lucy would hatch plans over coffee, and long before Samantha made Darrin his evening martini, Esmerelda would have been around for a cup of Sanka and a touch of bewitching mayhem.

Back then everyone seemed to have time to sit and talk over coffee and cake, with no one checking their blackberry in the midst of a chat. And in those days, an afternoon coffee wasn’t just a jolt of caffeine, but an excuse for a real break. The cake was a further reason to linger an extra half hour or so. Now it seems a nostalgic reminder of the days before Atkins, personal trainers, and Pilates. Continue reading

Posted in American, Baking

Blogs With Bite


[Mike is one of my oldest friends; we started hanging out together in, oh, 1966 or so, though we knew each other before that. Nowadays, he lives in DC, blogs at NotionsCapital, and will contribute frequently to, with a monthly Blogs with Bite (the most unusual food sites you’ll ever find) and more. – mb]

Blogs with Bite is an occasional omnivorous sampling of food blogs and sites we find particularly tasty. Follow the trail of bread crumbs back to earlier editions, starting here.

Here’s a fresh serving of Blogs with Bite:

Asian Dumpling Tips —  Few people know more about gyōza, wonton, lumpia, momo, bao, har gow, siu mai, and samosa than Andrea Nguyen, and none of them write as well.

McDonald’s History – “Travel through time using our Interactive Timeline! See the birth of McDonald’s, the launch of your favorite menu item, McDonald’s characters, or advertising jingles!” Continue reading

Posted in Behind The Scenes