Bittman Grills

6|18|10

One disadvantage of living in Manhattan is trying to take the subway on Sunday. (I’m writing this on a Monday, so the memory is fresh.) Another is the inability to grill. Aside from getting ready for the Mini grill-taping this year, and actually doing it, I haven’t had much opportunity.

So when it was my turn to cook dinner at the reunion I was at last week in Florida, I kind of went nuts. We bought two kinds of sausage and some rib-eye, which I “marinated” with rosemary. Oh, and a few ribs, on which I rubbed some ill-defined spice mixture Daniel Meyer brought back from his Africa trip.

But that was easy, and not especially interesting. Good, but not especially interesting.

Interesting were rediscovering two things I already knew: One, vegetables like to be grilled on low heat. And two, parsley pesto is every bit as good as “real” pesto. Continue reading →

For the Dad Who Doesn’t Have “Everything”

6|18|10

In honor of Father’s Day, the (best-selling, widely praised, and must-have) How To Cook Everything iApp is just $1.99 starting right about now through Sunday.

But is it Art?

6|18|10

by Kerri Conan

Its name is herb. Tarragon to be exact. And when I saw this announcement of his (or is it her?) second appearance as an object of art, I thought “ugh.”

Talk about fetishizing. How about just eating the stuff? As raising, cooking, eating—and talking about—food becomes more popular, are we actually making it too precious and less approachable? Continue reading →

Cooking with the Kids: Parents’ Night

6|17|10

by Daniel Meyer

(More of Daniel’s weekly adventures in cooking with kids. – mb)

On Tuesday we cooked zucchini boats and strawberry shortcake for ourselves. On Wednesday we cooked zucchini boats and strawberry shortcake for our parents. On Thursday we cooked zucchini boats and strawberry shortcake for our benefactors. I fear that cooking class may have just had its soft opening.

The repetition was a chance to practice our boat carving and biscuit making, and a welcome opportunity to explain to the kids that cooking is the delicate art of messing something up until it tastes good enough to eat for dinner – or, in this case, good enough to swallow in front of your mother.

Continue reading →

Kids Radically Changing the Food System

6|17|10

by Paula Crossfield

On a recent Sunday afternoon in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, over a hundred people gathered at the 6000-square foot Eagle Street Rooftop Farm to talk about the farm’s newest addition: six laying hens.

The farmer, Annie Novak, put together a panel that included Bronx gardener Karen Washington, Owen Taylor from Just Food, and a thirteen year-old chicken enthusiast from Massachusetts named Orren Fox, who has twenty-seven hens and four ducks in Newburyport, 35 miles north of Boston. Last year, he started O’s Eggs, which sells eggs for $5 a dozen. Continue reading →

This Week’s Minimalist: Pasta with Spring Vegetables (and a Little Meat)

6|16|10

In today’s mini, a little bit of prosciutto adds A LOT of flavor to Pasta with Spring Vegetables.

Fondant Fennel

6|16|10

by Edward Schneider

A while ago, elsewhere, I wrote about fondant potatoes: cooked slowly in clarified butter so that they become golden-crisp on the outside and creamy inside. Just recently, I was staring at a bulb of fennel, trying to decide whether to slice it thin and serve it raw or to quarter it and braise it.

Another element of the same meal was to be potatoes of some sort, and it occurred to me that by using the fondant technique I might cook both in the same way, and indeed in the same pan. So I did, quartering the fennel and cooking it cut sides down, for just as long as the potatoes – more than an hour. See the linked post for instructions.

Continue reading →

Bamboo Fire

6|15|10

The reason we ate at the unnamed restaurant the other night – the one I kind of trashed here - was because Delray’s Bamboo Fire was closed.

Turns out the funky, kind of charming, mom-and-pop is really mom-and-pop, and mom – Beverly – and pop – Don – both have full time jobs, and both have long commutes. They’re doing this restaurant as best they can, which means it’s only open Wednesday through Saturday. This takes dedication, love, and perhaps hope.

It shows. As this chowhound thread indicates, it has something of a local cult following. And although I’m far from an expert, in fifty years of visiting elderly people in south Florida, Bamboo Fire is the only place I have eaten outside of Miami that I could heartily recommend. If you measure worthiness in travel-time (as in, if money were no object you might fly to El Bulli for a meal, but you might not drive more than a quarter of a mile out of your way for a McDonald’s), I would rate Bamboo Fire at about an hour – and indeed, people are heading up here from Miami, and they don’t seem to think they wasted their time.

Continue reading →

Disaster Dal

6|15|10

by Laura V. Anderson

Some days, dinner does not go as planned. I’ve been working some late nights lately, and I wanted to throw together a fast, easy dinner that didn’t require a trip to the grocery store. Since I already had red lentils and spices in my pantry, dal was the obvious solution. I also had a bag of red potatoes lying around, so I decided to add a few to my lentil stew for heft.

Tired, hungry, and harried, I peeled and chopped fresh ginger and garlic, and I cubed my potatoes. I transferred these to a soup pot as I rustled around for the other ingredients I needed. My kitchen is small—the two square feet or so of counter space it offers are perennially taken up by a dish rack and an electric kettle. There wasn’t really enough room for the soup pot on the counter, but I managed to balance it pretty well on the edge—or so I thought. Five seconds later, as I reached into my cabinet for coriander seeds, I heard a bang and looked over to see cubes of potato and flecks of garlic and ginger bouncing across my studio apartment.

Continue reading →

Getting to the Root of the Matter

6|14|10

By Edward Schneider

Saturday’s quick scoot through the Union Square Greenmarket – Jackie and I were in haste to beat the afternoon thunderstorms that never came – yielded a pint of half-and-half and three bunches: tiny turnips, elongated white radishes and the skinniest little red scallions you can imagine. It was tempting to shred or paper-thin-slice the turnips and radishes (closely related botanically, incidentally) and make them into some kind of salad, but I’d faced down a salad the night before and was still unsettled by the encounter.

So I cut the scallions into one-and-a-half-inch lengths, stir fried them in peanut oil (I’d have used ginger too if I hadn’t made it all into lemon-ginger syrup the day before) and turned them into fried rice, adding a couple of scrambled eggs seasoned with salt, white pepper and sesame oil. Great rice: there’s nothing like salty, slightly caramelized members of the onion family in fried rice. Continue reading →

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