Because as I detail below, risotto is a no-brainer. It's true that the difference between bad risotto and pretty good risotto is technique, but the technique is not a big deal.

But the two biggest differences between pretty good risotto and great risotto are not technique-y at all. To make great risotto you need really good stock, and a lot of butter.

I've made risotto like this hundreds of times - the pix are of one I threw together last week - and I've rarely had it as good in restaurants.

Please. Do not let risotto scare you.

Simple Risotto

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: 45 minutes

[Adapted from How to Cook Everything]

4 to 6 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil, to taste

1 medium onion, minced

Large pinch saffron threads (optional)

1 1/2 cups Arborio or other short- or medium-grain rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine or water

4 to 6 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Put 2 tablespoons of the butter or oil in a large, deep nonstick skillet over medium heat. (Allow the remaining butter to soften while you cook.) When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the onion and saffron and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with butter, 2 to 3 minutes. Add a little salt and pepper, then the white wine. Stir and let the liquid bubble away.

3. Use a ladle to begin to add the stock, 1/2 cup or so at a time, stirring after each addition and every minute or so. When the stock is just about evaporated, add more. The mixture should be neither soupy nor dry. Keep the heat medium to medium-high and stir frequently.

4. Begin tasting the rice 20 minutes after you add it; you want it to be tender but with still a tiny bit of crunch; it could take as long as 30 minutes to reach this stage. When it does, stir in 2 to 4 tablespoons softened butter or oil (more is better, at least from the perspective of taste!) and at least 1/2 cup of Parmesan. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve immediately, passing additional Parmesan at the table if you like.