A Family Affair

A Family Affair

Gianni Piscitelli, a home cook I met on a recent trip to Naples, grew up cooking with his grandmother, Maria d’Orsi, and later with his father, Attilio, in Montesanto, a residential neighborhood of the city. His grandparents were smart: They bought a sprawling place high on a hill with a view of the sea in 1933, when the area was still countryside — a home where the extended family could all live and cook together. What this family has always cooked is the food of Naples. Which is not what I thought it was.

If you grew up in Lower Manhattan when I did, 50 years ago, you might have thought you knew the food of southern Italy: Pizza, meat ragu, lasagna, stuffed shells and seafood “fra diavolo.”

Read the rest of this column and get the recipes here. Photo by Grant Cornett.

Posted in Italian, Recipes


  1. Elena Siegel said...

    Mark, any chance of getting the scamarro recipe as well? It also sounded incredible…

  2. Nigel Glenday said...

    Made the Genovese and Migliaccio on Sunday after I saw the article. I couldn’t believe what red onions could do to beef chuck. I too was dreaming about this dish all the following day!

  3. Ingrid said...

    Mark, I have the migliaccio cooling in the pan on a rack. I know we won’t finish it tonight. How should I store it? Turn it out of the pan and keep it in the fridge?

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