By Freya Bellin
As the weather becomes chillier, I love a good casserole. This pasta dish, though maybe not a traditional casserole, evokes the same warm, melty, heartiness. And while the list of ingredients may raise eyebrows, they all come together harmoniously: the bite of the cheese, the juicy sweetness of fresh figs, and the crunch of Brussels sprouts. I don’t always love blue cheese, but it served its purpose well here. 4 ounces of cheese, especially a pungent one like gorgonzola, is just the right amount to add flavor throughout, without overwhelming the dish. It seeps into the tubes of rigatoni, and coats everything in a light, cheesy sauce. The almonds add some crunch, but flavor-wise don’t interfere with the rest of the dish. This pasta is well balanced, unique, and makes excellent leftovers. Recipe from The Food Matters Cookbook.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: I’m not wild about apple pie. If that makes me a bad American, so be it.
Of all the ways you can combine cooked apples, butter, flour and so on, pie is not nearly the best. I prefer either a nice crispy crumble topping made with oats, or this free-form apple tart. It is essentially an apple pizza, but uses a short dough, meaning it contains plenty of butter. It comes together very easily in the food processor.
Once you roll the dough out — into a thin circle or whatever other shape you choose (or your rolling pin chooses for you) — you have to address this question: how precious do you want this thing to be? If you have much more patience than I do you might start an elegant spiral of apple slices in the middle of the crust and loop it gracefully around until it reaches the edges. If you’re like me, you’ll randomly scatter the apples until you don’t see dough anymore. Call it rustic — I actually think it ends up looking just as nice, but maybe that’s equally un-American.
The last straw? Cut it with a pizza wheel.
Get the recipe here.
By Daniel Meyer
I recently moved to the stretch of 5th avenue in Brooklyn where Mexican food is king. Leaning out my front door I can see crates of chiles and cactus, giant plastic tubs of watermelon juice, and can smell gorditas deep-frying in corn oil (off-putting, strangely enough.) Brussels sprouts don’t exist here, (I checked) but tomatillos literally spill out on to the supermarket floor. Chorizo, like Entenmann’s or Little Debbie, sometimes gets its own display at the end of the aisle. It’s very comforting to see a community tailored so perfectly to the needs of its own home cooks.
Back to that chorizo, the fresh Mexican kind. I’ve eaten it only sparingly since I moved here; in a way, it’s so easy to get that I’ve stopped wanting it. I made it once, (pork shoulder ground in the food processor, mixed with plenty of paprika, cayenne, cumin, coriander, and garlic, and fried until crisp) but that was about it.
This week I needed some to test a recipe: chipotle-spiked sweet potato mac and cheese with crunchy chorizo crumbs. It made me remember how I like fresh chorizo best: as a garnish. Literally. Peel away the casings and fry the meat, breaking it up into little bits with a wooden spoon, until crisp. Use it to top gratins where you might otherwise use breadcrumbs, sprinkle over sliced avocados with lime juice, on eggs, on soup, toss into salads or roasted vegetables, (it’s even great on oatmeal with some cilantro and scallions.) Having a bowl of it cooked and ready to go in my fridge this week has been quite productive, though dangerous going forward: it’s as easy to find here as salt.
By Alaina Sullivan
Squash soups typically rely on a blender to give them a luxuriously creamy consistency, yet this version achieves richness without being pureed to a pulp. Small cubes of butternut squash are cooked in a milky-sweet broth, and they hold their shape all through cooking. The soup becomes creamy by way of coconut milk, which contributes a rich flavor without weighing it down. Curry, cinnamon and cumin spike the broth just enough to accent the squash without masking its natural flavor. The curry and coconut shine together as they usually do, but it’s the cinnamon that brings a warm, unexpected undertone to the dish.
It’s a soup that sits in limbo somewhere between creamy and brothy, sort of the best of both worlds. Garnish with fresh cilantro or mint. Recipe from Mark Bittman’s Kitchen Express.
Curried Coconut-Butternut Squash Soup
Cook two cups of chopped squash in a few tablespoons of vegetable oil, along with a diced onion, a teaspoon of cumin, a half teaspoon of cinnamon, and a teaspoon of curry powder (or more to taste). Cook the vegetables and spices until the onion is soft, about three minutes. Add five cups of chicken broth or water and a cup of coconut milk; bring to a boil and cook for about six minutes or until the squash is tender and easily pierced with a knife. Serve the soup topped with fresh cilantro and crusty bread or a scoop of rice.
Last month, I stood in the midday sun a few miles north of Anthony, N. M., and Anthony, Tex. — a town divided by the state line created in 1854 — staring out over a 15-acre plot of land that didn’t look like much. In this part of the world, it was once almost as easy to travel from the United States to Mexico and back as it is to go from one Anthony to another. Now the trip can drive you crazy, with long waits and inspections; if you’re undocumented and unlucky, it can kill you.
I’d spent a couple of days touring El Paso and Las Cruces, the cities of El Paso del Norte, as well as the colonias. (These are unincorporated settlements largely inhabited by Mexicans whose ancestors lived here when it was New Spain, joined by more recent immigrants.) Here, I learned that the border isn’t the only thing that’s become complicated around here; food is another.
Read the rest of this article here.
I’ve known George Faison for 25 years or more; he was a co-founder of D’Artagnan and is now a co-owner of Debragga and Spitler, a New York meat wholesaler that’s been doing business since 1924, and a main supplier to many of the city’s best restaurants. This is a letter George sent late last week to a well-known chef, and one he’ll be sending to others. (It’s worth noting, if for no other reason than to answer the inevitable question, which I asked myself, that George doesn’t only sell naturally-raised meats – he sells industrially-produced stuff as well. But he’s on a campaign to persuade the chefs who insist that’s what they want to change their minds, and I know he’d like to supply only the right stuff.) I’ve changed nothing except misspellings.
By Freya Bellin
Normally the idea of sesame noodles conjures images of a dense, nutty sauce. Here, a lighter approach is taken, with toasted sesame seeds offering a subtle nuttiness, alongside hearty whole wheat or soba noodles. Tender, wilted spinach soaks up the garlicky soy sauce, and seared salmon is a lovely accent; you can’t beat crispy salmon skin. However, it is truly just an accent. If you’re looking for a little more heft, you may want some additional protein, be it fish or tofu. Either way, the dish comes together quite quickly, and tastes great at room temperature. Recipe from The Food Matters Cookbook.
There are a number of reasons to pound a piece of meat madly before cooking it, though not all of them make sense.
For example, one reason you often hear is that it saves you time — that by flattening the meat first, or so the theory goes, you can cook the meat that much faster. Which of course you can: that part is inarguable. But the extra time it will take to flatten the meat is probably, if anything, going to be longer than the time it would take to simply cook the original piece.
There are other, better reasons for pounding, however. By broadening the meat’s surface area, you increase the amount of meat that browns and becomes crisp during cooking. In these cases, making a paillard — or, if you like, a cutlet or a scallop — is definitely the way to go. All you need to do is take a boneless cut of meat at least half an inch thick, slice into it horizontally and open it up like a book. (Alternatively, cut through it all the way so you end up with two pieces).
Then flatten it.
Read the rest of this article and the recipes here.
By Alaina Sullivan
Take away the skin and bones of a chicken breast and you’ve got a protein that is notoriously prone to becoming dry and flavorless. A quick braise can remedy that, especially when you do it with wine.
A wine braise renders chicken cutlets moist, tender and inebriated with a unique bright flavor. Riesling does the job here: It’s sweet and floral, and pairs well with fresh lavender, which you can use in both sweet and savory dishes. Here crushed lavender buds swim with twigs of thyme in the braising liquid, giving the chicken a rustic, woody flavor. Recipe from Mark Bittman’s Kitchen Express.
Lavender-Thyme Braised Chicken
Season chicken cutlets with salt and pepper, then sear them in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil on both sides until brown, about four minutes total; set aside. Add a tablespoon more of olive oil or butter to the pan, along with some minced garlic, a tablespoon of crushed lavender flowers (or a tablespoon of finely minced fresh rosemary), and a teaspoon of fresh thyme; cook for about a minute. Add a half cup (or more) of Riesling and deglaze the pan. Add the chicken, cover; and continue cooking until it’s done, another four minutes or so. Spoon the sauce over the chicken.
By Freya Bellin
Cauliflower is a perfect salad vegetable, as it’s full of nooks and crannies that simply drink up the flavors in a dressing or sauce. This North African style spice mixture adds a warm, sweet element to the zesty lemon juice dressing. It sounds simple enough, but the flavor combinations are really unexpected. The salad is full of textural variety: tender-crisp cauliflower, soft red onions, and leafy parsley. The result is a light, fresh-tasting, complexly spiced salad that could be a lovely side dish alongside a sandwich or some well-seasoned beans, or even a pasta/grain topper. Recipe from The Food Matters Cookbook.